To be honest,don’t remember much of
Songgwangsa, one of the oldest Zen temples in South Korea. Not that it wasn’t a memorable and impressive place but I was distracted in part by the company of a very cute Korean toddler and his friendly mom who became my companions for the day when I joined the
Suncheon City Tour. Dong Ok’s mother and I were playing “human swing” with the three-year-old boy for a fair bit of the time and we dawdled over a delicious lunch of sanchae bibimbap and acorn jelly. So my recollection of the visit to
Songgwangsa is rather hazy. So, if I ever get the chance to revisit this Head temple of the Jogye Sect ( the largest Buddhist sect in Korea) in
Jogyesan Provincial Park, here’s my checklist of things to look out for in this temple.
1.
Iljimun
This handsome gate is made of one pillar on the left and right and so it is called Iljoo Gate. This is the symbolic entrance to the temple which represents an Buddhist tenet: ‘Every truth appears from the single mind and returns to the single mind.' What makes this iljimun distinctive from iljimuns in other temples is that here the Hanja characters are written top down, instead of from right to left on the wooden plague mounted on top. The name ‘Daeseungseonjong' appears in the center, ‘Mt. Jogye' on the right, and ‘Songgwang-sa' is written on the left.
2.
Samcheongyo (Rainbow Bridge) and Uhwagak ( Woohwagak) Pavilion
As you pass through the Iljumun, you’ll come to the Samcheongyo or Neunheogyo. For some reason it’s called the Rainbow Bridge but it’s not that multi-coloured ( to my relief!) What makes this bridge unique is that a pavilion is built on top of a stone arched bridge and the entire structure also acts as another gateway leading the visitor closer to the main shrine. According to the official website of the temple, as one crosses the bridge, one must let go one’s physical and mental burdens to enter the ideal world of the Buddha. Built in the early part of the 18th century, it’s now designated South Jeolla Province Tangible Cultural Asset No. 59. It’s a beautiful spot to sit and contemplate the reflections on the stream below.
3.
Houses for Spirits
Look out for these tiny buildings that look as if they’re designed for dwarfish monks. Actually they’re not intended for humans but apparently spirits of the departed may need to visit temples as well to perform a rite called Cheondojae. Here, the spirits of the dead can stay the night, to purify themselves before entering the inner sanctum. Of course they have to abide by temple rules and segregation by gender has to be observed. Female spirits have to enter the Saewolgak while their male counterparts stay at the Cheokjoodang.
4.
A Rice Container To Feed 4000
The Bisari Gusi was carved from bush-clover and is about 270 years old. The enormous rice container was reputedly large enough to store enough grain for 4000 monks at one time. Songgwangsa’s importance as a training ground for monks is evident by the many buildings including hermitages, dorms and lecture rooms on the grounds.
5.
Ancient Chinese Juniper Trees
These twin trees, named Ssanghyngsu, on the temple grounds are at least 700 years old and have been designated as national monuments.
6.
Daeungbojeon
This is the main temple which looks as if it has two roofs.
Sources:
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=762732
http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=312930
http://songgwangsa.org/english/left01_01.html
http://www.lifeinkorea.com/Travel/scholla/songgwang2.htm
http://www.orientalarchitecture.com/koreasouth/ruraljeonnam/songgwangsa_gallery.php?p=songgwangsa01.jpg
