Namhae - Part 5 Boriam - Hermitage with a view

Boriam Temple - Namhae-do ; Thanks to ali on Vimeo.

Unfortunately, Daraengi in Namhae doesn’t get good views of either sunrise or sunset. For that, one would have to take the bus to Boriam, a tiny hermitage situated right at the top of Geumsan.

Below: Boriam's perch on Geumsan seems precarious

Above: The Goddess of Mercy has a great view of the southern sea

Compared to other mountains in Korea, it’s not high ( 681 metres above sea level) but it promises spectacular views of surrounding fantastically shaped rocks that would give your imagination a good workout. Or if they don't catch your fancy, you can enjoy panaoramic views of the Hallyeo Haesang National Park and look down on Sangju beach as well as a fair part of the Namhae coastline. Provided, of course, you are fortunate enough to get good weather. Which I wasn’t.

Sangju beach

Perhaps I should have made a special prayer in this place of worship dedicated to the Gwanseeumbosal or the Goddess of Mercy ( Kuan Yin as she is known to the Chinese). I should have asked her selfishly for good weather because for most of the time that I was up there, it was wet, misty, moisty and I could hardly see a thing and even had to inch my way carefully on the slippery stone steps.

But really, I shouldn’t be complaining. I was lucky enough to catch the free shuttle bus headed for the hermitage on its way back from the daily marketing errands. Along the way, it stopped by Bokgog reservoir as well to pick up more passengers. I was also grateful to the temple administration for allowing to stay there overnight, provided of course, that I followed the temple routines and paid 10,000 won ( in 2007 ) for meals and a place to sleep ( the dining quarters were converted easily into one big common space for mattresses.)

After spending a full day and night, it seemed as if I had made my way unwittingly to one of the most important hermitages in Korea, judging from the steady stream of visitors who would pay their respects to the female deity. The chanting and prayer sessions were always crowded affairs; for such a small temple, it seemed to have a fair number of monks and devotees who came specially to pray in this hermitage which was established by the famous Buddhist monk, Won-hyo in 683 A.D.

An extract from a KBS World Radio webpage explains the significance of this small temple:

Boriam Temple near the summit of Geumsan Mountain is one of the three most famous temples for prayer, the others of which are Hongryeonam Temple at Naksansa Temple in Yangyang and Bomunsa Temple in Ganhwado Island. These three temples are the three holy places for Gwanseeumbosal in Korea. In 683 (the 3rd year of the reign of King Sinmun of the Silla Dynasty), the great monk Wonhyodaesa built a temple here and met Gwanseeumbosal while he was praying. He named the mountain "Bogwangsan" and the temple "Bogwangsa." During the Yi Dynasty the imperial family made this temple the royal temple and changed the name of the mountain to Geumsan (silk mountain), and the name of the temple was changed to Boriam.


A poem " Namhae Mount Geum" by Lee Seong-bok is inscribed on a post just as you enter the temple:

A woman is buried in rocks ...
And I’m standing alone on Mount Geum  in Namhae under the blue sky.
I sink alone into the blue sea of Mount Geum in Namhae.

Boriam seems to be the ideal place to pray for miracles or to bury one's griefs.

sources:
http://vimeo.com/745647
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=262191
http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2898478
http://rki.kbs.co.kr/english/culturenlife/culturenlife_tour_detail.htm?No=1336

Namhae - Part 4 Rocks with Gender in Daraengi

The village of Daraengi itself can easily be explored in an hour or less, depending on your preferences. Of course, one could dawdle with a camera to take shots from different angles its most notable attraction – Amsubawi, the Male and Female Rocks which, according to legend, kept the nets heavy with fish and harvests bountiful as long as annual rites were observed.

Here's an extract from the KBS World Radio website  which details the local legend:

'Amsubawi (Jaungam: female and male rocks) is said to attract many women, who come to these rocks secretly at night to pray for fertility, spawning the following legend:
An old man appeared in a dream to the sheriff of this district in 1751 (27th year of the reign of King Yeongjo during the Joseon Kingdom) and said, “I have been buried at Gacheon Village and I am very much troubled by the frequent passage of cows and horses. If you erect my body, you will surely have fortunate affairs,” and disappeared. The next day the sheriff went with his staff to the place he saw in his dream, dug up the ground and found the Amsubawi. He left the Ambawi lying upon the ground and erected the Subawi, just as they are today.'

Below: The Female Rock - Does she look like she's in heavy labour?

Above: You need good shoes and strong legs to get around Daraengi!

The 5.8 meter high Subawi  (phallic-like rock)  was obvious enough but one needed a little bit more imagination to see the outlines of the 3.9 meter high Ambawi ( female rock)  as a woman in labour. I was more inclined to make my way past the terraced rice fields to get as close as I dared to the waves crashing on the dark rocks and stare at the mesmerizing swirling waters.

Eun-hee’s mom, the ajumma who runs the minbak I opted for, had suggested that I walk up to Mt. Seolheulsan ( 481 m ) but I had no clue as to how difficult the course would be and so I chickened out. Much to my regret as later when I looked more closely at the map in the local tourist brochure, it didn’t seem too heavy-going a course ( about 20 minutes to reach the summit). Missed out also on the chance to spot the freshwater crab "Chamgye" ( Eriocheir sinensis) which lives in the unpolluted valley streams of Seolheulsan.

Here's an interesting snippet from the Global Invasive Species Database:

Eriocheir sinensis (the Chinese mitten crab) is a migrating crab which has invaded Europe and North America from its native region of Asia. During its mass migrations it contributes to the temporary local extinction of native invertebrates. It modifies habitats by causing erosion due to its intensive burrowing activity and costs fisheries and aquaculture several hundreds of thousands of dollars per year by consuming bait and trapped fish as well as by damaging gear.

Eriocheir sinensis a.k.a. Chinese freshwater edible crab, Chinese mitten crab, Chinese river crab

sources:

http://asiaenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/myeyes.kto?cmd=view&md=ena&lang_se=ENG&bbs_sn=930001

http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/culturenlife/culturenlife_tour_detail.htm?No=1300

http://www.issg.org/database/species/ecology.asp?si=38

Namhae - Part 3 Where to stay in Daraengi

My main destination in Namhae was Gacheon-ri or Daraengi village tucked away in one corner of the southern coastline of Namhae Island. The houses here hug the steep coastline and surprisingly for a village by the sea, there are no fishing boats to behold - only paddy and garlic fields carved into the sides of the foothills.

The paddy terraces of Daraengi recall Balinese landscapes

It was a little after noon when the local bus from the Namhae Bus Terminal pulled over at its last stop of its picturesque journey. There was no reply at the minbak nearest to the bus stop; presumably the ajumma was out tending crops.

It's a steep climb to your neighbour's home in Daraengi

There is a large signboard by the main road which highlights the different minbaks with contact numbers available but I found on my own the ideal place run by a very friendly ajumma who preferred to be known as Eun-hee’s mother.

Just a tiny village by the sea but what a pretty location!

By ideal, I mean not too far from the bus stop as it was quite a breathless task lugging a heavy backpack up and down the uneven and very steep lanes. For 20,000 won, I had my own ondol room and Eun-hee’s mom was prepared to serve up dinner also for another 5000 won. ( 2007 prices)

Small wonder the people here are so fit - their daily workout from house to field

That night, I was delighted to have a low table laden with rice, fried fish and different side dishes brought to my room so that I could feast in traditional Korean fashion, cross-legged on the delicious warmth of the heated floor. It may have been the fresh air of the island, or the especially tasty fresh fish caught somewhere in the surrounding waters but that night, I did something I don't usually do: I ate that fish clean to the bone.

 Eun Hee's mom serves a very satisfying dinner!

Most of the houses here face the sea so brace yourself for some strong sea breezes. These proved to be handy as I had a fair bit of laundry to dry. Eun-hee's mom observed my struggles and very expertly helped me hang my wet clothes on the lines just outside my room. They blocked the great views of the sea for a while but it was fun to sit on the verandah and "chat" in my limited Korean with the ajumma who ran the minbak.

                                      Watch your step - sometimes getting close to Nature can be perilous!

sources:

http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=1051940
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=262191
http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2874408

Namhae - Part 2 Getting There and Getting Around

Photo above was taken from moving bus; on Namhae en route to Daraengi

Getting to Namhae

In my  2007 Spring tour of Korea, I took an express bus from Jinhae to Namhae. Those in the capital can board the bus from the Southern bus terminal in Seoul  OR If you are in Busan, board the bus at Sasang Bus Terminal for a 2-hour ride.


Details as follows:
Seoul  - Namhae 
Departure Times from Seoul - 08:30, 09:50, 11:30, 13:30, 15:10, 16:40, 18:00, 19:00
The bus ride takes 4.5 hours  and costs 22,200 won ( fares may need to be updated!)
Seoul Nambu Bus Terminal: Subway Line 3, Nambus Bus Terminal, Exit 5 / +82-2-521-8550 (Korean)
Namhae Bus Terminal: +82-055-864-7101 (Korean)

Crossing the 660 metre- Namhae Daegyo (bridge) by bus may be the more sensible and quick way to get from the mainland to the island but if I were to retrace my journey again, I would prefer to go across on foot to savour the sights from Asia’s first suspension bridge ( completed in 1973) at a more civilized pace.

One could also then have time to pay respects at the nearby shrine dedicated to the famed Admiral Yi Sun sik whose leadership helped to repel the Japanese navy at the end of the 16th century. Walking into Namhae from the mainland would enable visitors to enjoy the beauty of the cherry blossoms that flank the winding road from Namhae Bridge to the town centre in springtime.

After changing to a local bus at the bus terminal, I could sit back and enjoy the scenery as the bus driver negotiated the bends and turns of the local roads in a sedate fashion. There were panoramic vistas to enjoy and I wanted to ask him to stop at various points that were simply begging to be captured on film.

If you don’t have a car or bike, the local bus is probably the best way to explore the island. To get hold of bus schedules, just ask the staff at the main bus terminal in Namhae town. Along the route, you may decide on the spur of the moment to get off the bus to explore such villages as Pyeongsan, Sachon and Seongi.

sources:
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=262191
http://eng.namhae.go.kr/main/
http://eng.me.go.kr/content.do?method=moveContent&menuCode=res_tou_eco_namhae
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Namhae

Namhae - Part 1 Why Visit Namhae?

My visit to Namhae in spring of 2007 all started with the movie “Barefoot Ki-bong”. The beauty of Daraengi village shown in the film was as charming as the true story of the simple-minded but big-hearted hero’s determination to complete a marathon. I had the urge to see for myself this village perched on the steep Namhae coastline which formed the dramatic backdrop to Ki-bong’s daily runs.

Many tourists are already familiar with Jeju but Namhae has enough charms of its own to give Jeju a run for its money. Namhae has almost everything that lovers of landscape could wish for – rugged coastlines, dramatic mountains, narrow valleys opening up to colourful plains and quaint villages that either hug the rocky shorelines or the foothills.

It is no wonder that this island has become the site for the American and German Villages for Koreans who have lived abroad for years. It seems the ideal place to retire with its clean air, relaxed pace of life and open spaces.
Namhae is  beginning to prove a strong rival to Jeju in terms of shooting locations for TV dramas. More recently,  the village of Daraengi was featured in the opening episode for "Cinderella's Step-sister" with Moon Geun-yong in the lead role. Those familiar with the K drama, Couple Or Trouble, starring Oh Ji-ho and Han Ye-seul, may also want to check out some of the places on the island that provided scenic backdrops to the story.

Even if you've never seen the movie or the drama series, Namhae is worth the time and effort. Don't be surprised to find yourself extending your stay.

sources:
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=262191
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=1051940
http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/CU/CU_EN_8_5_1_22.jsp
http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/CU/CU_EN_8_5_1_66.jsp

Seoraksan, Part 6 - Where to Stay in Osaek

Rich Autumnal tints in Osaek

Backpackers and solo travellers would probably opt for one of the many family-run minbaks and yeogwans situated around the shops in the small town of Osaek, in the southern corner of Seoraksan National Park. Mine was a charming minbak, a few doors away from a church which was set up in a traditional-style house with wooden pillars and potted chrysanthemums flanking its short stone staircase at the entrance.

For 30,000 won a night ( in 2004 ), I had a room looking out onto the small street which ran parallel to a tiny stream. The room was also next to the wooden verandah which fronted the house so it seemed like an extension of my room where I could laze and lounge about and try my very limited repertoire of Korean vocabulary on my friendly landlady for the next three days.
 

Bible Verse on Rock outside charming church building in Osaek but is OT or NT?

There was no attached bathroom but hot water was available in the common bath and one could use the kitchen facilities. I was surprised to see my neighbours in the minbak, a foursome of hikers from Ulsan, grilling pork slices on their camping gear inside their room. My assumption that the landlady would go ballistic at the sight of guests cooking indoors but she was joining them and soon enough, the friendly hikers invited me to their impromptu picnic on the floor.

I’m still not sure if cooking in rooms is standard practice in minbaks and yeogwans across the country or if our landlady was exceptionally tolerant and accommodating. Certainly her parting gift of an Andong mask necklace was an unexpected and touching gesture.

If you’re travelling with a big group and can afford to splurge, then book rooms at the Greenyard Hotel -see the KNTO pic above. ( Tel 033 672 8020; http://ns.greenyard.co.kr) Its many facilities include a hot spring, sauna, swimming pool, noraebang and a shopping arcade.

Wanted to check out its jjimjilbang but chickened out and opted for the swimming pool instead much to my regret because they don’t channel any of the hot spring water into the swimming pool ( 6000 won for either baths or pool).

 One plus point of using its bathing facilities is that you can use the free hotel shuttle to get to other places like Yangyang, Naksan and Seorakdong.

sources:
http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=349496

Seoraksan Part 5 - Sample the Waters at Osaek

I didn't think I was a city-slicker till I tried the steep gradients of Seoraksan. They were something of a shock for me when I ventured brainlessly on an uphill trail on my very first day. Happily for my soles and ankles, the kind ajumma at my minbak suggested a novice-friendlier route for my second day.  The route that starts just behind the Greenyard Hotel was more like my cup of nokcha. It goes along the river valley past Mangwolsa and Seongguksa Temples towards Sibi Waterfalls

The trail is on a much more gentle gradient and very scenic as one follows a footpath up a narrow river gorge with two mineral springs to quench your thirst along the way.

The first Osaek Yaksu ( spring)  is easy to spot because it’s near the start of this trail and is marked by a stone tortoise spouting water and surrounded by plastic scoops in red or blue for visitors to use.

The second spring requires a bit more walking to reach. ( 2 kilometers past Sunnyeotang towards Jujeongol Valley). Look out for a footbridge with a sign marked in Hangul –Mineral Spring No 2. Again, just follow the plastic scoops and join the queue to claim your next refreshing and complimentary drink straight from the ground.

According to the Yangyang Travel Guide, the mineral water contains iron and carbonic acid and “the spring produces 12,500 litres of mineral water each day…. Rice cooked in Osaek water turns blue and has a good taste”.

Honestly, I don’t recall the taste of the water except to say that it was cool and refreshing. It didn’t seem highly carbonated to my untutored palate but then again, I was more taken with the novel charm of drinking water directly from a spring and vaguely concerned about developing some Korean version of Bali or Delhi Belly. But the scores of people who kept refilling their water bottles and even 5 litre containers were a reassuring sight.

For more on Seoraksan, click here.

sources:
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264192
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=658326
http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=658327
http://english.knps.or.kr/Knp/Seoraksan/
http://www.osaek.info/
http://www.san.go.kr/english/info/gangwon_seoraksan.jsp
http://pr.korean.net/eng/koview/koview_10.jsp

Seoraksan, Part 4 - Lessons for the Novice Hiker

Here are the lessons I learnt as a novice hiker while struggling alone on the slopes of Seoraksan:

Lesson No 1: FIND OUT BEFOREHAND ABOUT THE TERRAIN and BE HONEST WITH YOURSELF ABOUT YOUR OWN FITNESS LEVELS!!!

Foolishly I assumed buying a simple map from the Ticketing Office would suffice as a guide for my first hiking attempt. Make the effort to learn enough Korean to ask experienced staff or climbers about the levels of difficulty for the different routes. Bear in mind that the locals have the agility and strength to rival mountain goats so if you’re a novice hiker from the city, it’s best to multiply by three the times and distances they quote you.

I should've started with the Osaek Valley instead of aiming for the waterfall.

Also it’s vital to pay close attention to the contour lines on the maps and don’t underestimate the speed at which you can tire out on the hills. Osaek has “the most direct routes to Daecheongbong” which is the main peak in the national park ( 1,707.9 metres) but I mistakenly thought that aiming for Seorak-pokpo ( waterfall) , situated halfway up the route to the peak was a modest enough goal. According to the map, the climb up to the waterfall would be about one and a half hours. No sweat, right?

Pristine-looking stream but still safer to drink from the spring or yaksu

Lesson No 2: Pack ample water and snacks to fortify your body and spirits when attempting these trails.

What seemed more like three hours later, I was still somewhere on the foot of Daecheongbong with the waterfall still nowhere in sight. Dozens of walkers who had passed me had reassured me that the pokpo was nearby but I decided I had been over-ambitious and turned back, listening dutifully to the demands of my raucous tummy. On my way down the steep trail, I paused to admire a squirrel which hopped onto a log across the path. It seemed unusually still and tense and then the source of its nervousness was clear – a snake under the log. Are there poisonous snakes in Korea?

Lessons No 3, 4 and 5 emerged in rapid succession:

3. Pay attention to where you’re walking

4. Carry a fully-charged mobile phone with direct dialling for the tourist emergency number ( Call 033-1330)

5. Avoid walking alone.

Actually I was never really alone – there were many walkers ahead of me and behind me, climbing up or down and if I had indeed had the misfortune to be bitten by a venomous asp, I would probably just have to endure a few minutes before some hikers would come upon me. I could rest assured that they would be amply equipped to help.

Most of the walkers I encountered looked dressed and armed to the hilt for something closer to an assault on Mount Everest. I envied them their competent-looking boots, pairs of sturdy walking sticks, wind-cheaters, gloves, baseball caps and sun-glasses. They would probably also have a first-aid box handy within their backpacks or at least a mobile phone to link to some mountain rescue operation nearby.

Heck, the Koreans looked so fit and strong, I bet even the halmeonis ( grandmothers) could’ve slung me on their backs and carried me down without much fuss.

source:
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=658326

Seoraksan, Part 3 - Osaek in the south corner

Many visitors to GANGWONDO invariably head towards the main centre of SEORAKSAN in the northern sector of this 354 square kilometer park. They usually opt for the inter-city bus from SEOUL ( 12, 400 won, every 1½ hours). Forget about stopping by the capital and head directly for the north-east province famous for its mountains, valleys and beaches.

Seoraksan ( Snowy Crags Mountains) PARK comprises three main sections; most people just visit Outer
Seorak as Seorak-dong  has the best facilities for tourists. Inner Seorak, the most remote part relatively speaking, seems to be the least prepared to deal with throngs of visitors. In the south section of the park, Osaek ( Five Colours) “ boasts both a cold mineral spring and a hot mineral spring….There may be other spas in the country…but none can match Osaek’s combination of delightful hot springs and great scenic beauty.” Enticed by these lines from the Lonely Planet, I decided to visit the southern part first.

It wasn’t difficult to get there from the Incheon International Airport. All one needed to do was to purchase the ticket from a counter just before you exit the IIA, hop onto an express bus just outside the air terminal for Chuncheon and then board another bus at the bus terminal at this gateway to Gangwondo ( buses from Chuncheon to Osaek, 8400 won, every two hours).

The route along Highway 44 is particularly rewarding in the few kilometers just before Osaek at the Hangyeryeong Pass ( 1003 meters high) Those with their own transport have the enviable luxury of lingering in this spot to enjoy some coffee, snacks on sale here while taking the impressive panoramic views of dramatic jagged peaks which loom like giant sentinels guarding this southern gateway into the national park. Others such as yours truly who are held hostage by the inter-city bus schedules have to be content with fleeting glimpses of the Seven Brothers’ Peak or Jujeongol Valley.

Travel Notes:
Bus to Yangyang / Sokcho from Dong Seoul Bus Terminal. Get off at Osaek-ri after passing the Hangyeryeong Pass on Highway 44. 7 buses a day 4 hours and 30 minutes.
Mineral water Osaek yaksu (mineral water) – Osaek oncheon ( spa) rates hotel bath 5000 won, general baths 3000 won)
Chima pokpo ( 5 minutes from Osaek yaksu / 100 m from Greenyard Hotel)

Seoraksan, Part 2: Beware - Traffic Jams on Mountain Roads

Autumn, 2004 – Heavy Traffic On Mountain Highway

Sometimes fortune favours the naïve traveller such as myself who had thought it wouldn’t be so hard to find a place to stay. It just so happened that in 2004, I had boarded and alighted from the same bus at Chuncheon as two ladies who ran a minbak in Anteo Homestay Village, a stone’s throw away from the bus stop in Osaek, a village in the southern part of Seoraksan. ( This was after I had changed from an express bus bound for Chuncheon, taken directly outside Incheon International Airport).

I had to pay 30,000 won per night for one basic room with no attached bathroom ( which was pretty steep, considering such rooms usually went for 20,000 won) but soon realised that room rates tended to balloon just ahead of the surging masses that made their way to Seoraksan during the weekends.

When I took another bus from Naksan into SEORAK –DONG, the traffic jam was even worse. Many passengers, including yours truly, got tired of being stuck on the road, and so opted to walk the last two kilometers. Incidentally, getting out of these places can be just as nerve-wracking and a test of one’s patience as the coaches and cars seem to choose the same hour for their exits from the national parks.

Seoraksan, Part 1 - Not So Easy Getting Away From It All

If you don’t have much time and you just want to get away from the hustle and bustle of the city, it may be best to take the express bus straightaway from the Incheon International Airport out to places like CHUNCHEON where you can then change buses to go to Seoraksan National Park. Click here for the schedule of bus services from the airport to Chuncheon.

However, you may need to be psychologically prepared for the masses of Seoulites who choose to descend on this famous autumnal attraction in Gangwon-do which makes getting away from it all a little harder to achieve.

It’s a matter of good luck and good timing. You want to be there to see the maples at the height of their scarlet glory but so do thousands of other local and foreign visitors. After all, we all have access to the same information provided by KNTO travel advisory which posts the dates when the autumn foliage reaches its peak in different parts of the Korean peninsula.

pic: KNTO

* You may try to avoid the city only to find the city folk turning the pristine outdoors into bewildering near-chaos with the impatient honks from the long queues of tourist buses on Highway 44 struggling to squeeze into the car parks.

* You may curse yourself for failing to making reservations for a decent place to sleep and end up trying your level best to catch forty winks in a foetal-like position in your seat in the coach.

Above: Very serious photographers vie for best spots to catch the 'dampong'

The usually quiet mountain trails are not unlike the human traffic of the local shopping mall during autumn as you have to share narrow footpaths with endless groups of children out on school trips, ajummas from walking clubs chattering away excitedly or passionate photographers jostling for the most ideal spots for capturing the prettiness of the dampong ( maple ) leaves.

Below: School groups can be scary!

For more on Seoraksan, click here.

sources:
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264219
http://www.airport.kr/airport/traffic/bus/busView.iia?seq=604&flag=E