Showing posts with label tea. Show all posts
Showing posts with label tea. Show all posts

Friday, August 28, 2009

Fasting Buddha & Remembering Manhae, Seonunsan Part 2

How do I End Up Sipping Tea with Some Monks in Chongam?

In the autumn of 2005 I stumble upon Dosol-am, a hermitage in Seonunsan Provincial Park. The main temple is under renovation, it was impossible to find accomodation in the minbak village outside the park and I count myself fortunate that I'm allowed to stay at Dosol-am.

One of the seonims ( monks)  invites me for a ride in the hermitage van to visit his friend at the Chongam ( hermitage) for more coffee, courtesy of the ajumma who works in the kitchen and some nokcha in the seonim’s room when he finally emerges from wherever.

First time I’ve a privileged peek into the quarters of the monks – are female visitors allowed? It’s more messy and cluttered that I thought – another stereotype busted. Seonim seems pretty restless for a monk and I wonder whatever made him join the order. Doesn’t seem very Zen like to me and his agitated or excited tone suggests some dissatisfaction. Even in these remote places, there’s probably monastic politics. Sigh.

His friend seems a little more at peace ( cluttered quarters notwithstanding ) and his few possessions catches my eye. A laptop ( they have Internet connections even here?), a small replica of the Fasting Buddha ( the original is in Pakistan), a pine tree tea table with slats to drain away the unwanted hot water or cold tea. And an exquisite and very expensive tiny teapot with an anthurium-shaped spout.Another surprise: a small library at Chongam with a book of poems by Manhae a.k.a. Han Yong-Un ( married monk, poet & freedom fighter) who died in 1944. Fortunately I have enough time to copy these two poems ( with apologies to the translator!)


“PARTING CREATES BEAUTY”

Parting creates beauty. No beauty of parting
is in the substanceless gold of the morning.
Nor is it in the threadless dark silk of the night.
Nor is it in the unfading blue flower of heaven.
My love, if there is no parting, I would not be
reborn with a smile after I die in tears.
Oh parting, Beauty is created by you.


"MY WAY"

There are so many ways in this world.
There are stony passes in the mountains;
There are waterways on the seas;
and there are the courses
for the moon and stars
to follow high up in the sky.
A fisherman leaves his footsteps
on the sand by the river, and
a woman collecting herbs leaves her
traces on the green grass.

A wicked man follows the ways of sin.
A man with justice doesn’t hesitate to
step on the edges of a sword
for the sake of what is right.
Over the western hill, the setting sun
treads on the glow of the sky.
In the spring morning, the crystalline
dewdrops slide off the petals of flowers.

Yet I only have two ways –
If I were denied the way to the bosom of my love,
I would follow the way to the bosom of death;
without the way to my love,
other ways will be more depressing
and painful to follow than the way to death.
Ah, who has opened my way? Ah, there’s no-one
but you, my love, who could open my way.
But, my love who has opened the way to you,
why have you also opened the way to death?
Extract from my travel journal ( At Dosolam, Seonunsa Provincial Park, 5th Nov 2005)


For an earlier posting on Seonunsan,  click here.
For more on Manhae, click here.

Tuesday, August 4, 2009

Ssangyesa in Hadong - In Search of Peace and Bulil Pokpo


Don’t believe the travel brochures that claim you can enjoy a quiet walk along the Cherry Blossom Road in Hadong-gun. See previous posting.  Perhaps it’s only true if you were to take a walk late at night or very early in the morning when the springtime busloads of tourists are busy in the noraebang ( karaoke) or still asleep.

At other times of the day, you have to tune out the incessant honking of impatient drivers and the loud music blaring from street peddlers’ sound systems or the neighbouring norae-bang. You also have to jostle with hundreds of other pedestrians or side-step every now and then to avoid enthusiastic mothers with children posing for the cameras.

One way to escape from the noise is to drop by the nearby tea cultural centre, Cha- Mun-hwa Centre, an oasis of calm and tranquility. It's near the original site for the cultivation of green tea in the country. The exhibits lack explanations in English and the processing of tea leaves isn’t very exciting visually. Still, there's a variety of teapots and teacups on sale to admire.

Who knows? You may be even be offered a complimentary cup of green tea by the friendly sales staff. Consider it a bonus if the tea master is around to demonstrate for you the fine art of making tea, Korean-style.
 Who could resist adding a camellia to the others placed on the signpost?

Another way to avoid the crowds is to follow the trail behind Ssanggyesa ( 쌍계사 )  to the Bulil Waterfalls. ( 불일폭포)  It does mean also getting away from the cherry trees but then one can have a surfeit of blossoms. Then again, the walk is reward in itself because it's in one corner of the immense and impressive Jirisan National Park, the first to be established in South Korea

The 2.3 km walk isn’t too demanding, by my humble standards. Alas, autumn isn’t the best time to go hunting down waterfalls as it’s the dry season and the impressive torrents of summer shrivel up to a dull trickle. True enough, when I finally caught sight of the  the 63-m high and 3-m wide pokpo, it did  not seem to be at its best though one person at least has claimed that "the amount of water is constant throughout the year".

When it freezes up in winter, ice ridge climbers like to practise on these falls, located between Cheonghak Peak and Baekhak Peak, about 2 km east of Ssanggye-sa.

Here's the legend of Bulil Falls from the KBS World website:


"When the dragon that used to live in the pond under this falls swished its tail when it was flying up to heaven, Cheonghakbong and Baekhakbong were created and the mountain stream began to fall between the two peaks, forming a dynamic waterfall."
However, there’s a spectacular view from a tiny hermitage  near Bulil Falls to be enjoyed if you venture beyond the temple grounds. Check out the photos of "Bullil-am" ( 불일암 ) which means "Budhha Sun Hermitage", especially the pic of  the "antique wooden well" on this website. There's also a campsite nearby for those who want a little time-out in this corner of Jirisan; for more information, click here.


 Who knows how long it took this ancient pine to reach this height?
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