Heaven knows why but I am so easily seduced by that description that Seonunsan is put on my itinerary for my November 2005 trip. However, the sight of the crowds entering the park make my heart sink and I begin to wonder if it’s a mistake. It isn't easy finding a place to stay during this peak season. The Youth Hostel is fully booked and anyway, don't fancy sharing a roof with noisy school groups at this point in time. But the further I get from the main temple, my fears of a wasted trip fade away.

Seonunsan is, indeed, a beautiful place. A mini green tea plantation and a busy stream flank the narrow trail which leads to Dosol-am, a tiny hermitage, about an hour’s walk away from the main temple. Leaves of amaryllis plants cover the grounds in patches, hinting at the spectacle that greets visitors in September. While the camellias are not evident, the deep reds of the maples here are ample compensation. The maples here aren’t as profuse as those in Naejangsan but the colours are quite stunning, evoking a real sense of autumn.

A quiet place with lively cats, Dosolam has some lovely maple trees with leaves carpeting the ground in red, gold and orange hues that rival a Persian rug. It also has a great view of Cheonma Peak (Cheonma-bong)and one can even hear the exhilarated shouts of walkers who reach its summit. I surprise myself by reaching this cliff as well without actually planning to do so.
After a stiff climb up many steps and some hauling with handy ropes, I stand with a strong sense of personal victory on a great vantage point and look down into the valleys and across to other peaks.
On my way back, I chance upon two signboards marking the spots where MBC filmed some dramatic episodes for its highly successful drama series, DaeJangGeum a.k.a. Jewel in the Palace: the cliff where Lady Choi commits suicide and the cave where the heroine’s mother is buried.
Yongmun Cave (Yongmun-gol) actually comprises three enormous holes in the rock face that one can walk through. It’s a bit creepy if one is there in the forest alone amid the cool gloom and silence. Luckily a group of walkers pass by so I can ask them to take a snapshot of me posing beside a pile of rocks for a fictitious grave. Oh the power of TV.
For another posting on Seonunsan, click here.
sources:
http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=658504
http://culture.gochang.go.kr/seonunsan/
http://culture.gochang.go.kr/eng/
http://culture.gochang.go.kr/eng/
http://article.joins.com/article/article.asp?ctg=12&Total_ID=2656630
http://english.whatsonkorea.com/view_listings.ph?lid=5273&code=M_A&scode=M_A3&ss_code=M_A3-9&pst=M
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/images/wallpaper/0909/004_1024.jpg
www.dvdbeaver.com/film/articles/...amas.htm


