Devotees of Personal Taste who were hoping to make a pilgrimage to the non-existant Sanggojae may opt instead to stay at Rakkojae which is also in the Bukchon Hanok Village. Those who fell more in love with the house than with Lee Min-ho may find consolation in the fact that a lot of effort has been put into achieving a harmonious balance between tradition and modern comforts in the former home of aristocrats (yangban) which has been turned into a guesthouse since 2003.
The name “Rakkojae” means “the place where one can enjoy the traditions of times past and rest one's soul” and judging from the photos of this 130 year-old house, it certainly looks like an inviting oasis of peace amid the concrete sprawl of Seoul. Its founder, Ahn Young-hwan, a former computer programmer, shared his philosophy on the website of his guesthouse: “Korea cannot be seen. It must be felt…. Korea’s recent past shows a struggle against poverty and devastation, and the dawn of growth-oriented development. But, in the process, a great deal of cultural properties were destroyed within the four gates. The time has come to restore our heritage, to enjoy life. I hope cultural spaces will be developed by other like-minded individuals in the future, because Rakkojae is only the beginning.”
Ahn enlisted the help of hanok architext, Jeong-Yeong-jin to convert the nobleman’s house into a luxurious guesthouse which could play host to not more than twelve guests at a time. It employs the traditional ondol system but at same time, you have modern plumbing in private bsthrooms, even a Japanese-style bath to soak fully in, and Net access.
Here then is my fantasy program of my stay in Rakkojae ( an ajumma can indulge in some day-dreaming, can’t she?)
I’d pack a light bag and take the subway line No 3 to Anguk Station. Walking instead of taking the cab helps to build up the anticipation. After coming out from Exit No 2, I’d walk for about 300 m until I reach Gahae-dong Office. Then as I turn into the sideline opposite the office, I’d mentally prepare myself to enter a more genteel and slow-paced world. Sounds as if I’m preparing for templestay except I don’t have to get up at 4 am and worry if I can handle 108 prostrations!
As I head up the alley towards Rakkojae, I’d pause to admire the frontage of its neighbours though the high walls may convey an air of inaccessibility. When I reach the pinewood entrance of Rakkojae, I’d take a picture of the wooden tablet bearing its name in Chinese characters to check out the pronunciation in Mandarin later.
The beauty of the Daecheong, the open-floor courtyard warrants a mini-photo taking session before I head towards my sleeping quarters and remove my shoes on the didimdol ( stepping stone). Looking into the immaculate and empty floor, I wonder if I’m expected to lay out the bed mattress myself as there is no Western-style bed here.
But then other questions follow rapidly – What should I do first? Shall I take advantage of Rakkojae’s proximity to two important palaces and do some sightseeing at Gyeongbokgung and Changdeokgung? Indulge in the complimentary wood-fire sauna made from natural mud? Or sign up for a tea ceremony session, a cooking lesson on how to make kimchi or try my hand at calligraphy? Or do I simply explore the grounds and buildings after unpacking?
Whatever my choice is, I find myself sitting down in the evening to a feast. For starters, abalone porridge is served and this is followed by sashimi ( to cater to the many Japanese guests curious about the Korean version of their ryokan), Korean-style roast beef, japchae, bulgogi amongst other dishes. While we finish our meal with a light dessert and sip cups of soju or rice wine, we’re treated to a musical performance by a pansori singer.
That night, I exchange travel notes with other guests as we admire the stars and moon from our vantage point in the open courtyard. My sleep is deep and relaxing on the comforting warmth of bed linen nicely toasted by the ondol-heated floor and I dream of Lee Min-ho or better still, the owner of Rakkojae offering me free board and lodging for the rest of my life. ….
Seriously though, Rakkojae is not simply a place to play out your Personal Taste fantasies but a microcosm of the elegance and refinement of old Korea where you might find yourself falling in love with an aesthetic and a way of life instead of just a Hallyu star.
sources:
www.rkj.co.kr.
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=255895
http://www.modthesims.info/download.php?t=406025
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=262465
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/AC/AC_EN_4_8.jsp?cid=351668
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=561382
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/CU/CU_EN_8_5_1_67.jsp
