Mureung Valley: In the Footsteps of KBS's Hwang Jin-yi, Part 1

Nothing beats sageuk ( Korean historical dramas) for getting inspiration when planning your travel itinerary around Korea. For some inexplicable reason, I've been watching again the KBS drama, Hwang Jin-yi and salivating each time the beautiful scenery of the countryside is featured. So here's the first part of my wish-list as I try to follow the footsteps of the KBS version of Hwang Jin-yi's story. ( Not much point trying to trace the trail of the original gisaeng as she lived in what is now North Korea).

First stop: the famed Mureung Valley in Gangwon-do, popular in the past among poets and these days among K-drama producers. It  forms the backdrop to the scene in which an aristocratic youth ( played by Jang Keun-suk) chances upon Hwang Jin-yi (played by Ha Ji-won) as one of the gisaengs-in-training. Just as it's love at first sight for the young man, it's love at first sight for yours truly as well and I wonder why I didn't pay attention to the mention of this place in my Lonely Planet guidebook. Now I kick myself mentally for this omission as I've also learnt that it's also been used as the outdoor shooting location for two of my other K dramas, Painter of the Wind and City Hall.




Click here for the link to KTO website.

I'd probably find a bus to Gangwon-do from Incheon International Airport.

May have to change at Chuncheon to get to Donghae. If it's late in the day,

 I'd stay at a jjimjilbang near the bus station at Donghae.

If Samhwasa temple or its nearby hermitages here don't have an informal temple-stay,

I guess I could easily find a minbak just outside the park grounds.

Must mentally prime myself not to expect gushing

 waterfalls as they tend to dry up in autumn.

I'd spend time to gawk and marvel at the Chinese characters inscribed on these rock faces.

And of course, hike up to see the Twin Falls.

From the KTO website:

Mureung Valley (무릉계곡), which spans from Mt. Dutasan (두타산) and Mt. Cheongoksan (청옥산), refers to a four-kilometer stretch from Hoamso Pond – where, according to a legend, a tiger drowned to death – to Yongchu Falls, located upstream. The waters of Mureung Valley flow over wide sheets of rocks and into the cracks between them, forming a large and particularly splendid pond along the path. Starting at Mureung Rock, a wide sheet of single rock on which hundreds can sit, the valley twists and turns around Samhwasa Temple, Haksodae Falls, Okryudong, and Seonnyeotang Ravine, all the way to Ssangpok and Yongchu Falls, providing breathtaking scenery along the way. Also known as ‘Arcadia,’ scholars and poets frequented the valley in olden times and the 5,000-m2 Mureung Rock bears the inscribed names of some of these poets and their works. The valley offers a medley of curious-looking rocks and stones, and other odd scenery that attracts many tourists.

Also, I'd need to check out Sogeumgang in the vicinity.
Hiking Trails - 3 suggestions from KTO:
* Trail 1:  Entrance - Mureung Rock (무릉반석) - Samhwasa Temple (삼화사) - Dutasanseong Fortress (두타산성) - Dutasan Mt. (두타산)

* Trail 2: Entrance - Mureung Rock - Samhwasa Temple - Gwaneumsa Temple (관음사) - Gojeokdae (고적대) - Dutasan Mt.

* Trail 3: Entrance - Haksodae (학소대) - Ssang Waterfalls (쌍폭포) - Youngchu Waterfalls (용추폭포) - Bakdallyeong (박달령) - Cheongoksan Mt. (청옥산)

Travel options:
1. Take a bus from East Seoul Terminal to Donghae. Nineteen rounds of bus services are provided everyday from 07:09 to 20:05 and the ride takes about 3 hours.

Or take a train from Cheongnyangni Station to Donghae/Mukho Station. Six rail services are provided everyday from 07:00 to 22:40 and the ride takes about 6 hours.

2. Once you are in Donghae, you can take a city bus from Donghae Intercity Bus Terminal to Mureung Valley. (The bus operates at 30-minute intervals and the 14.1 kilometer journey takes about an hour.)

 
sources:
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=789870#
http://punynari.files.wordpress.com/2010/03/forfigure-fm.jpg?w=600
http://tigersandmagpies.com/2010/01/donghae-cheongok-cave-mureung-valley/
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TlKdfq64mj0&feature=player_embedded
http://www.skynews.kr/article_print.asp?mcd=60&ccd=6&scd=3&ano=37
http://english.dhtour.go.kr/guide/10.htm