Cheonggyecheon, The Elongated Oasis In Downtown Seoul

I'm not crazy about big cities, hence the very limited references to Seoul in this blog. But Cheonggyecheon, the 5.8-km restored creek which flows from west to east, is one reason to return again and again to Seoul. While I have yet to find some emotional connection to the Hangang, the main river which bisects the capital, I liked this modest-sized stream straightaway - the pedestrian walkways below the level of the traffic, the murals, the variety of bridges, the stepping stones, the fountains, the signs of flora and fauna all along this stream.

It is easy to envy Seoulites who work downtown in Jongno-gu; they can enjoy packed lunches near the cool and animated waters and relax while being inspired by various cultural events that often take  place along the stream. It's also a great place for photographers - whether they're taking daytime or nighttime shots. Hard to imagine that there were people who opposed this urban renewal project on grounds of expense and impact on the neighbouring shops but I think the benefits can't simply be measured in won.

I didn't have enough time to walk the entire length of Cheonggyecheon though that's something on my long list of to-do's when in Korea. Managed to cover only Course 1 ( see below). I suggest you visit it at different times of the day just to soak in its changing faces - early morning before the rush hour, during the lunch hour, and in the evening when the spotlights create a pretty setting for shooting TV dramas such as Lovers in Prague.

Getting There By Subway:

Line 1: City Hall Station, Jonggak Station, Jongno 3-ga Station, Jongno 5-ga Station, Dongdaemun Station, Sinseoldong Station

Line 2: Euljiro 1-ga Station, Euljiro 3-ga Station, Euljiro 4-ga Station, Sindang Station, Sangwangsibni Station

Line 3: Jongno 3-ga Station

Line 4: Dongdaemun History & Culture Park Station

Line 5: Gwanghwamun Station

Exit towards Cheonggyecheon Stream

Course 1 starts from Cheonggye Plaza and ends at Ogansu Bridge; the walk takes about 3 hours

Course 2 starts from Cheonggye Cultural Center and ends at Ogansu Bridge; this walk takes about 2 hours 30 minutes.

sources:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cheonggyecheon

http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264625
http://english.sisul.or.kr/grobal/cheonggye/eng/WebContent/index.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Korea-Seoul-Cheonggyecheon-2008-01.jpg
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Seoul-Cheonggyecheon-01.jpg

Keeping Cool, K-style

How do Koreans keep cool in summertime? Here are TEN ways ( not in any particular order of effectiveness.)

1. You could join the beachgoers   who have opted to don their swimsuits and head for the sea at places such as  Haeundae, Busan but you're more likely to suffer heat-stroke or sun-burn and feel stifled as you compete with 700,000 others for your tiny bit of space on the sand. As temperatures rise, tempers are more likely to flare with long queues for ice-creams, beach brollies and public toilets. IMHO, it might be better to head for the beach at the tail-end of summer once the students head back home to get ready for school.

2. Those stuck in the capital will probably gravitate towards Cheonggyecheon in the heart of Seoul. Go early to book prime spots under the bridges for more shade.

3. Traditional wisdom dictates that you "fight fire with fire" and so older Koreans prefer to deal with the dog days of summer by indulging in samgyetang ( chicken stuffed with rice, dates and ginseng in  soup) Chobok, one of the hottest days on the Korean calendar,  is a good time as any to have this dish. (NEWSIS)

4. These children from Daegu may enjoy a water gun fight but how cool can you get while perspiring under raincoats? Isn't the point to get wet? Over-protective ajummas, take note.

5. It seems paradoxical but it makes sense to don winter clothes and  sign up for indoor ski lessons to escape the summer heat. (Taken  in Bucheon - Yonhap News)

6. Not just sand, sea, surf and sunblock at the Busan Sea Festival at Haeundae Beach. You're less likely to wilt from the summer heat if you get lost happily in this ice maze.

7. Cool off by soaking your feet in foot baths while sitting still in the shade, complete with the coolest sunglasses and summer hat. (Taken in Boseong, South Jeolla Province - Newsis)

8. Take shelter under gourd vines  at the National Institute of Horticultural and Herbal Science in Suwon, Gyeonggi Province. If gourds aren't available, head for any bower or tree with widespread branches.

9. Decorate your own summer cooling devices -Visitors pose with their own hand-painted fans at the Seoul Museum of History  (Yonhap). See earlier posting on hand-made fans. My guess is they're keeping cool because of the air-conditioning so head for museums, art galleries or cinemas which provide better, though not green,  relief from soaring temperatures.

10. This Korean at a commando unit camp in Damyang, puts the army helmet to good use.

 sources:

http://english.chosun.com/site/data/html_dir/2010/08/06/2010080600306.html

http://english.chosun.com/site/data/html_dir/2010/08/06/2010080600304.html
http://english.chosun.com/site/data/html_dir/2010/08/03/2010080300287.html
http://english.chosun.com/site/data/html_dir/2010/08/03/2010080300286.html
http://english.chosun.com/site/data/html_dir/2010/07/30/2010073000355.html
http://english.chosun.com/site/data/html_dir/2010/07/23/2010072300273.html
http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2923704
http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2923417
http://world.kbs.co.kr/english/news/news_photo_detail.htm?No=15225